|
|
Post by Dave45 on Feb 9, 2013 15:35:50 GMT
If it's fitted with an xl3s engine then it takes Champion N6Y plugs or the equivalent. To identify if it is an xl3s engine, take a look at the engine number stamped on the offside front of the engine block, just below the cylinder head. If it is stamped with the letters... SA next to the engine number then it's an xl3s. Be careful buying them. Some 304's use taper fit plugs and others use a squashy washer.
What an anorak I am! Haha!!! There are quite a few haynes manuals on ebay going for 99p. If you're like me then buy a couple. You'll wear them out!!
|
|
|
|
Post by classicmfb on Feb 12, 2013 19:43:20 GMT
It's arrived! Now I can check what engine and plug type the car has, but the first thing I've done is work out the knobs and switches.
The handbook mentions a rheostat for the panel lights but I can't find one, the clocks are too dimly lit though, so either there's a rheostat somewhere that's been turned down or some of the bulbs have gone. If it's the latter, I hope they're not going to be a nightmare to get at!
|
|
|
|
Post by Dave45 on Feb 12, 2013 21:40:43 GMT
Wahey! Congrats on your new arrival! The Rheostat is to the right of the steering wheel, under the dash. It's like a wheel dimmer switch.
|
|
|
|
Post by classicmfb on Feb 20, 2013 21:26:11 GMT
It's beginning to look like I made a mistake buying this car; I'd been so concerned about ensuring I didn't end up with a rust bucket that my eyes were (uncharacteristically) closed to signs of trouble in the mechanical department.
Mayonnaise under the oil filler cap, plenty of condensation in the engine and the exhaust, coolant level so low that it wasn't even visible and a fan belt that simply fell off while the engine was running all suggest the car may not have received the best of maintenance.
Maybe the head gasket is going, maybe it isn't, but it doesn't matter anymore because one of the spark plugs had been done up so tightly by whoever fitted them that it has disintegrated leaving the threaded portion stuck in the head, a second plug has been similarly 'welded' into position, one has undone normally - I didn't have the heart to try the fourth.
having paid plenty for the car, I can't afford a hefty bill after only eight days of ownership so I need to find a way of removing the remnants of the plug in situ if possible.
I'd be very very grateful for any practical suggestions...
|
|
|
|
Post by Dave45 on Feb 20, 2013 22:13:40 GMT
Sorry to hear that. It looks great on the website. If it was bought from a company then they should give a 30 return by law if it's not fit for purpose. Sale of goods act maybe?
On a positive note, I think they suffer from mayo in the filler cap. All mine have. Also the heads are a straight forward job but the gasket set is about £80. All parts are available from dean hunter if needed. Don't skim the head though!! They're not designed for it. Only other choice is helicoil it in situ but swarf will get in the cylinders.
Buy a haynes manual and read up is my advice.
|
|
|
|
Post by Dave45 on Feb 21, 2013 18:05:06 GMT
Has the electrode of the plug come out as well? If so, try hammering in a torx socket (maybe a 55 or 60) either that or a splined socket so that it grips the plug threads and then try wind it out with a ratchet. Warm the area around the plug first maybe using a small blow lamp. Block off the plug hole as there will be fuel vapour in there and mind the carb and fuel lines or you'll need engine parts removing from your face instead!!!!
I think you would be best removing the head though sending it to an engineers to drill out and re-tap. It's a straight forward job but be careful not to disturb the piston liners.
Good luck and keep us posted
|
|
|
|
Post by Dave45 on Feb 21, 2013 21:43:32 GMT
Just taken the head off mine tonight and found a beach in there! That's the overheating problem then! All good fun!!
|
|
|
|
Post by classicmfb on Feb 23, 2013 13:11:49 GMT
Thanks Dave 45. The current position is that three of the plugs have come out OK, so it's just the broken one that's causing a headache.
Luckily, the entire porcelain core stayed attached to the main body of the plug, leaving just the threaded portion and the side electrode stuck in the head. I've tried an extractor but I'm having to use so much force that I'm afraid the extractor might snap too - then I really will be stuck.
I've been soaking the remnant with Plus Gas several times a day for the last several days but I've yet to try heating the area. If that doesn't help, it looks like the head will have to come off (a workshop manual is in the post).
And all this because someone seemingly couldn't spare a few extra seconds to install the plugs properly...
|
|
|
|
Post by Dave45 on Feb 23, 2013 13:39:28 GMT
I always put copper grease on the threads. The steel reacts with the aluminium of the head then welds together. If the head has to come off then have a good read of the manual first. Main things are don't turn the crank with the head off. This breaks the liner seals and that'll mean an engine removal and strip. Don't skim the head as I mentioned. And finally it is possible to do a head job without removing the timing casing by wedging a piece of wood between the engine and the timing chain. But if it comes off then the casing has to be removed as well.
The book will make more sense than me! Fingers crossed you'll do it in situ. Be really careful heating it up. There are only 40 RHD cabriolets on the road now. Don't make it 39!
|
|
|
|
Post by classicmfb on Feb 23, 2013 16:43:44 GMT
Fear not - I'm highly allergic to large explosions!
More in hope than expectation, I've been persevering with the Plus Gas dousings, but so much has been sprayed over the last few days that the fluid has probably already reached wherever it's going to.
As a distraction, I thought I'd refit and properly tension the fan belt; I got it back on easily enough and I've slackened the bolt but how on earth do you reach the adjustment nut?!?
Looks like I'm going to be reading that manual from cover to cover when it arrives.
|
|
|
|
Post by Dave45 on Feb 23, 2013 18:41:14 GMT
Haha! I think the only way is to struggle! It is possible though!
|
|
|
|
Post by classicmfb on Feb 27, 2013 20:40:10 GMT
Thank you Dave45.
The workshop manual's just arrived, so now I can have a go at the fan belt set up and the "work on it? I can barely see it!" distributor (no luck extracting the broken plug yet though).
Every type of classic I've owned in the past has had at least one specialist who makes their living working on that model/make and on whom I've sometimes had to rely when I've got out of my depth; for future reference, is there a classic Peugeot specialist in the southern half of the country?
|
|
|
|
Post by Dave45 on Feb 27, 2013 21:03:38 GMT
Not to my knowledge. They must have more sense down south! Dean hunter at www.peugeotparts.co.uk is up t'north in Brotherton and that's all I know of really. I bought my 304 from a guy in Hereford and he used Dean too. Classic peugeot dealers are few and far between. Other sites for parts are... www.serie04.com/fr/204-204 and... www.franzose.de/en/Peugeot/204-304/On here the best people for advise are Oldpug and myself. Oldpug is King though! |
|
|
|
Post by classicmfb on Apr 20, 2013 14:36:02 GMT
No, I didn't blow myself up heating the head to remove the broken spark plug - the head had to come off in the end, just as I'd been advised.
While the car's been unusable, I've had time to go over it carefully and have spotted for the first time that the rear wheels have a noticeable amount of negative camber with the car unladen. Is that correct for a 304 or is there wear in the rear suspension, even though nothing's knocking/clonking?
I've joined CPUK now and am looking forward to meeting other members at some events this summer.
|
|
|
|
Post by Dave45 on May 4, 2013 18:33:10 GMT
Sorry, I've just seen this. There's nothing adjustable on the rear suspension, so if all the bushes in the shockers and rear arms seem fine then it'll be all right. Are the tyres evenly worn with no worn edges?
|
|
