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Post by 405stdt on Nov 3, 2008 10:33:01 GMT
Hi chaps,
I'd like some advice on removing the lower ball joints on my 405 ('93 STDT with ABS).
My previous 405 needed the n/s one done but I took it to a garage (cant afford to this time, however) and it took them about three hours, alot of hammering and a blow torch to get the old one free!
Is there a certain technique for easy removal, or do I need to invest in a ball joint removal tool?
Also, the rear silencer has separated around the seam to the mid pipe. Since it has been blowing, the turbo seems to be spooling up better and the engine feels more powerful.
Would the fact the exhaust gasses are escaping through the blow give more power (like fitting an upgraded exhaust would) or is it just a figment of my imagination?!
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Post by oldpug on Nov 3, 2008 18:54:09 GMT
If you use the special 405 ball joint socket tool and a air gun they just unscew.
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Post by 405stdt on Nov 7, 2008 10:29:47 GMT
Right, I've ordered one of the Sealey removal tools and it should be with me by Monday, shame as I wanted to remove the ball joint this weekend. I dont have access to an air gun so would a good squirt of WD40 and a tap with a hammer help ease it out?
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Post by oldpug on Nov 8, 2008 11:06:09 GMT
Make sure you lock the tool to the ball joint with the pin nut.This stops the tool slipping off and damaging the pegs.Like any bolt or nut thats siezed,use a good, correct size socket,a big bar and plenty of grunt!shame about the air wrench as the vibration of one will undo it quicker than your arms.
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Post by 405stdt on Nov 10, 2008 9:37:35 GMT
Can you elaborate a bit more on the locking of the tool please?
Would a cordless impact wrench be a good substitute for an air gun? I might be able to borrow one off a friend of mine.
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Post by 405stdt on Nov 10, 2008 9:47:57 GMT
Forgot to add,
I replaced my rear silencer Saturday and it being a non-peugeot part the tail pipe sticks out differently and is more visible - but it doesnt foul on anything so im just going to have to live with it!
When I was fitting it I noticed the the rest of the exhaust was loose all the way back to the manifold. At first I thought 'great, its busted at the manifold end too' but i found the spring bolts that hold the manifold in place were very loose. I tried to tighten them up but they are a right ain in the parse to get to and once i got a spanner on the top and socket underneath they wouldnt tighten up. For fear of snapping them I decided to leave them alone.
Will they be ok to be left loose or is it imperative that I tighten them up?
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Post by frank on Nov 10, 2008 17:52:11 GMT
if the manifold bolts are loose then the fire ring in the middle of the manifold and front pipe will be worn, you can buy a kit which includes the fire ring, bolts and springs, i dont think a cordless gun would be any good, unless its a snap on 18volt gun, as they do get f ing tight!! a good air gun only just gets them. re by the locking of the tool he means to get the lugs of the socket correctly located on the ball joint, cause if you dont you will just break it.
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Post by 405stdt on Nov 10, 2008 20:32:24 GMT
Where can I buy the exhaust kit from? Id love to use an air gun to get the job done but to do so I would have to drive the car to a garage without an MoT  Ok oh I will make sure it is properly locked on there. The old ball joint is a bit rusty and dirty so might give it a clean with a wire brush |
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