How to repair a scuffed alloy wheel

[nickmcuk]

1200 grit i would have used 2k.

1200 is just a bit fierce and you risk breaking through the existing clear coat if you are not careful, its very easily done (as I run my own detailing company as a sideline have seen attempts go wrong all too often)

Looks a good enough job though will be interested to see it after 10k miles as you normally find it starts to lift on the blend edges

[nickmcuk]

Acrylic based if its off the shelf stuff (BTW use the AG stuff a lot of the time on the trade cars that come in for valets found Group 10 paints to be even better)....hope you used a petrol resistant lacquer otherwise you could have some fun if you get tar remover/thinners/brake cleaner anywhere near it.

The finishes on furniture are somewhat different....i see what you are saying but they are not the same as the rattle can laquer you get in shops for car work...unless you mean a profesionally sprayed 2k (2 pack) type lacquer

Oh and you should watch out with T-Cut/AG Paint restorer as they dont contain diminishing abrasives so you can do a lot of damage to a paint surface....you really are better off using something that with break down whilst polishing (diminishing abrasives) as its akin to flatting down something with finer and finer grades of wet n dry....you wouldn't do all your flatting with an 800 grit paper.

If you can get hold of the Meguires Profesional range the Meguiars #85 Diamond Cut works well followed up with Meguiars #83 Cleaner/Polish will work wonders....the great thing about these products is...1, they can be used by hand or machine. 2, they dont contain any fillers so the result you see is what you have. The above products can be bought from here www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing/polish/cat_16.html

[nickmcuk]

You are missing the point T-Cut is a old school product and although it works on modern paint finishes its principally designed for old school cellulose type paints and not modern 2k Acrylic or water based finishes.

To get the best results you need to use modern products that have been developed and evolved for modern finishes....trust me I know an awful lot about detailing and paint refinishing.....and I mean the physics of it not just how to use it.

I wasnt knocking your work I am just trying to impart some actual knowledge towards you (and the other forum users) as i have said before I run a Detailing company and know about products and their effects.....

Is this the lacquer you are on about?

www.crooksclassicparts.com/cgi-bin/site-editor.pl/14/-ecommerce?action=item;item=PJ1-17-LACLR;eid=1058485

[Piston Broke]

I'm not saying the information is not worthy of consideration.

What I am saying is I managed to better the factory finish with cheaply available products.

If someone wants to use expensive or specialists products then they are welcome to do so, but I have proven it is not necessary.

Next time you do such a repair yourself you could pop up a helpful guide demonstrating first hand how you would deploy your favoured products, then we could see first hand the benefits to which you refer.

The process is rather more involving than the final finishing, which is really the least important element - if you've messed up the paint the all the Meguiars in the world won't save you. Nevertheless, if you can produce an excellent finish on a painted surface, but also prep the surface and apply the paint yourself, then we would welcome a guide with alternative methods and materials.

I've bettered factory finish for almost nothing and if you can improve on that in a cost effective manner then we would be genuinely interested - unfortunately, most of us don't keep the products to which you refer and to purchase them all would cost more than the £25 that Chips Away would charge for doing the repair for you.

PS - sorry, forgot...that's not the lacquer, though that's the correct manufacturer. It's a clear engine lacquer resistant to 240 deg C. I've got 2 cans left but I've not seen it in years and all I think they do now is the black engine paint instead of the engine lacquer. If anyone knows different please let me know as I wouldn't mind grabbing another can or two.

[nickmcuk]

its not listed on the the PJ1 site only clear laquer