|
|
Post by veetail on Aug 31, 2011 20:40:37 GMT
My wife has broken the nearside rear torsion bar following an encounter with a big rock. The radius arm is down on its bump stop, but no other damage seen. The torsion bar is easy to get at and it looks as if it could be removed by cutting and then hammering out the two ends. But I guess its not as simple as that, and the Haynes manual has no information other than take it to a main dealer. Anyone changed a torsion bar, and can tell me how to do it.? Many thanks  |
|
|
|
Post by oldpug on Sept 1, 2011 15:54:05 GMT
I`ve never seen one snap in my life,that must have been a big rock.It all pulls out towards the n/side.Remove the adjusting screw at the o/side end of the bar and pull the broken bit out of the sub frame.Remove the n/side roll bar lever(if it has a roll bar?) then remove a screw and offset washer at the end of the t/bar and knock the bar out.The ride height of the radius arm has to be set before you slide the new bar in,it has a "master spline" NEVER hammer it in, just be patient,turn push,turn push etc and it will slide in,(with plenty of grease.) There are a few other tips but thats the basics,study it all and you will figure it out I`m sure.
|
|
|
|
Post by frank on Sept 1, 2011 21:13:58 GMT
and plenty of wd40 before taking apart
|
|
|
|
Post by oldpug on Sept 2, 2011 9:46:16 GMT
I could also add that it would be a good Idea to remove the radius arm from the cross tube and pack the bearings with grease.Then?? do you do the same with the other side?? as your half way there.Worth thinking about as old 205 radius arm bearings often seize up! Is it worth it he says?
|
|
|
|
Post by frank on Sept 2, 2011 12:37:27 GMT
now theres a dilema oldpug, he could do that but then open up a can of worms. its an old car and could spend alot of monney on it. if he removes the arm and the bearings collapse?  |
|
|
|
Post by oldpug on Sept 2, 2011 15:00:20 GMT
I know,once started you could end up with a rear axle overhaul job.It all depends on what condition the rest of the car is in and if Veetail thinks its worth the effort?? As always with old cars,do you start the job? and if so when to stop?
|
|
|
|
Post by veetail on Sept 2, 2011 21:01:43 GMT
oldpug / frank
Many thanks for help.
It was a very big rock and there were two big guys in the back plus a weeks Tesco shopping!
If I can get the broken bits of t/bar out ok, then will leave the rest of the axle alone. It was all working fine before, and opening cans of worms ends up as an expensive nightmare.
However finding a replacement torsion bar might be a problem as they don't often snap.
|
|
|
|
Post by oldpug on Sept 3, 2011 10:23:04 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by crockett on Sept 3, 2011 18:43:56 GMT
My wife has broken the nearside rear torsion bar following an encounter with a big rock. The radius arm is down on its bump stop, but no other damage seen. The torsion bar is easy to get at and it looks as if it could be removed by cutting and then hammering out the two ends. But I guess its not as simple as that, and the Haynes manual has no information other than take it to a main dealer. Anyone changed a torsion bar, and can tell me how to do it.? Many thanks Hi I have never known one to break!! My recommendation is to replace the whole rear beam much quicker and easier ( drop the exhausrt ,4 bolts hold the beam up. two brake lines and a hand brake cable.)No fun stripping down the beam to replace the torsion bar. A tip when buying a second hand beam is to inspect the inside of the arms where they sit on the axle tube for signs of a red powder like brick dust which is rust powder from a worn out arm bearing, so not buy that as the chances are the tube and arm will be worn beyond taking a new bearing!! Also I believe the turbo as the gti have an anti roll bar too! Hope this helps. |
|
|
|
Post by veetail on Sept 7, 2011 20:19:02 GMT
Well if present progress continues I should be able to fit a new torsion bar without taking the whole sub frame off. The original idea of cutting a section out of the Middle of the t/bar seems best. That will make it easy to knock out the short splined section stuck in the radius arm. But pulling the other longer bit of t/bar out of the sub frame casting might give problems. I need to attach something solid to the cut off inner end so that I can knock it free. A bit dodgy to weld so close to the fuel tank  Oh and yes the TD does have an inner ARB, so I have had to undo it's securing plates and rotate them downwards to gain access to the n/side t/bar torx screw and offset washer. Not yet a can of worms... but more than I had expected. |
|
|
|
Post by veetail on Sept 9, 2011 16:24:21 GMT
Hmnn.. it was going well. I cut the broken t/bar in the middle, and sure enough the inner splined end came out easily.  The broken other end fell out of the radius arm leaving about an inch of splined bar stuck in the arm. With the torx bolt & washer removed I tried to knock the splined bit out from under the car. It would not budge.  Is there any reason why I can't attack it from the outside and knock it into the radius arm to fall out of the inner side? Edited to say: The splined bit is well & truly stuck, knocking it from either side has no effect. Perhaps heat might free it, but the fuel tank is just behind so it's a choice between removing the fuel tank. Removing the whole rear axle. Or wrapping the working area in water soaked blankets so as to safely apply a blowtorch to the stuck part.  Will go away and think about it for a day or so |
|
|
|
Post by veetail on Sept 12, 2011 20:34:15 GMT
Ah well guess the can of worms just opened. Had to take the n/s radius arm off and find a workshop with a big hydraulic press. At least the axle & shaft are ok. Then noticed the handbrake cable was knackered. After that found lots of rust in the o/s sill, made appointment with local crash repair garage to fix it. His estimate very reasonable, and the rest of the bodywork solid and sound. Seems the sill drains were blocked, and road salt got in via a missing rubber grommit. Hope no more worms get out of the can  |
|
|
|
Post by veetail on Sept 13, 2011 19:42:48 GMT
A query for the experts on here?
I have been offered a t/bar by someone on e-bay. But it is for the right side or o/s and has a different part no than the one I want (which is the left side or n/s)
Surely the two t/bars are the same size and the o/s one should fit in the n/s?
Or perhaps not... I dont't want to buy the o/s bar and find out that it won't fit. Anyone know about this? Many thanks
|
|
|
|
Post by veetail on Oct 2, 2011 17:37:38 GMT
Job done  The two t/bars are identical in spite of different part nos. Positioning the new bar to give the same radius arm setting on each side, required removal of shocks and making a jury strut for the left side. I started to fit grease nipples to each side of the axle tube, but it proved too difficult without taking the whole sub frame off. So drilled the axle tube in the middle and injected about a tea cup of gear oil into the tube. Might result in a slight oil leakage from the radius arm seals, but the needle roller bearings will last much longer. Peugeot no longer stock anti roll bar retaining plate seals and bushes, but these are available from an axle rebuilding firm in Devon. Interesting job |
|
The broken other end fell out of the radius arm leaving about an inch of splined bar stuck in the arm. With the torx bolt & washer removed I tried to knock the splined bit out from under the car. It would not budge. 
Is there any reason why I can't attack it from the outside and knock it into the radius arm to fall out of the inner side?
Will go away and think about it for a day or so 
