Welded Repairs |

Donaldiesel
First Class Post

Posts: 310

Welded Repairs Nov 12, 2012 13:50:14 GMT

Quote

Post by Donaldiesel on Nov 12, 2012 13:50:14 GMT

Hello folks, I have a question about MOT welding. On my 24 year old Peugeot, the rear inner and outer wheel arch edges are bonded together with a rubbery type mastic/ sealer - they were never spot welded, and indeed the flange detail is not suitable for welding. I need to replace a lower front section of the outer rear wheel arch and I have a repair panel to weld in. However, MOT inspector tells me the repair must be continuously welded all round, even where it was not welded before.

I would prefer to bond the wheel arch edges as original, as welding here is likely to distort the arch, and may even be weaker than the original joint. The MOT manual says bonding or combination of welding & bonding is acceptable only when it is the manufacturers recommended method of repair. So what is the Peugeot recommended repair method in this situation? So far my only option is to cut in the repair a couple of inches back from the bonded edge and continuously weld along that. Not a neat solution.

If Peugeot actually recommended bonding the wheel arch edges back in the 1980's, I guess I will have to prove this to the MOT inspector. Any 'old school' insiders out there?

Thanks for your help,

Regards,
Donaldiesel

Piston Broke
First Class Post

Club Information Officer & '07 Series Club Registrar

Posts: 377

Welded Repairs Nov 13, 2012 10:09:20 GMT

Quote

Post by Piston Broke on Nov 13, 2012 10:09:20 GMT

I'd direct a query to the Ministry themselves. I can't see why repairing a car to the manufacturing standard would cause it to fail an MOT but while I suspect you man is giving you the wrong advice I've been out of the MOT game a long time.

Try this...

mottesting.org.uk/mot-information-contact.html

As well as being the 07 Series registrar, I work full time and have a family. This places limits on the time I can spend playing with Peugeots. With this in mind I would ask that you only PM me with a query if you are a current paid up CPUK member, quoting your club membership number. Thank you.

Dave45
First Class Post

Posts: 495

Welded Repairs Nov 13, 2012 20:38:24 GMT

Quote

Post by Dave45 on Nov 13, 2012 20:38:24 GMT

I'm a tester too and it sounds as though the tester is being a massive @rse. If it wasn't welded originally then it shouldn't need to be now. It's not even structural so spot welds are fine. Seam welding a wheel arch will ruin the paint and distort the metal.

Got in touch with VOSA and see what they advise. I've not seen it so I'm not 100% sure but if it's what I think it is... Bond it, shutz it and it'll be fine. As long as it doesn't flap about and there are no sharp edges, I wouldn't worry.

Check with VOSA though.

What do you mean, the belt goes through 90 degrees??

Donaldiesel
First Class Post

Posts: 310

Welded Repairs Nov 17, 2012 10:57:20 GMT

Quote

Post by Donaldiesel on Nov 17, 2012 10:57:20 GMT

Thanks. It seems that the MOT rules are poorly drafted in this respect. So any repair within 300mm of seatbelt or suspension mounting point must be continuously seam welded - no allowance for non structural panels, so open to interpretation. I showed the exposed rear sill/inner wheel arch to the MOT inspector before welding on the outer wheel arch panel and he was happy it was good and solid. On that basis he allowed the outer wheel arch panel to be welded up to the edge only. Welder did a neat job with TIG and it has now passed. By next year it will be finished flush and painted and no one will know.

Ironically, it was the failure of the mastic seal that caused the trouble in the first place. The mastic had hardened and cracked along the wheel arch edge, allowing water in which got trapped between the rear sill and lower wheel arch. So check your wheel arches!